Risto: Cocooned
Benjamin Le Hay for Runway Resource
Following stints as a design assistant at Jean Colonna and Thierry Mugler, Risto Bimbiloski, originally from Macedonia, has plenty of flavorful skill and style for creating head-turning fashion. His factory, which looks after the production requirements of all his collections shines when it comes to handcrafted knits and industrial cut-and-sew garments.
For this season, Risto drew inspiration from the landscapes of Nicola Sassoon fused with distorted digital imagery. Voluminous and excessive silhouettes in Risto’s signature chunky, sumptuous knits abounded. Visual depictions of blurry jungle forests, waterfalls and waves cresting at midnight seemed to dance on a variety of abstractly cut dresses, jackets, cardigans and hoodies.
The show kicked off with several knit capes in silver, robin egg and fog — each bordered in silver or gold threading and beads. Outer garments and cashmere sweaters appeared to cling to the body like spider webs. They encased colorful dresses and tops in rainbow, watercolor-pastels.
The overall mood and styling of the show symbolized a butterfly or moth muted by its dreary cocoon. This gave a sense of off-kilter balance and displayed the mismatch and versatility of each piece. A slit-back dress in a Fair Isle/Python silver print turned heads, as did a parka with wool and cashmere lining in black midnight, with the hazy image of waves. The collection’s leggings also were noteworthy with the collision of double materials such cashmere, Lyrca, patent leather and wool, merged at the inseam, certainly a designer who juxtaposes fabrics, styles and shapes for a provocative effect.
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