Poland Fashion Week: Eymeric Francois

French designer Eymeric Francois closed day two of Poland Fashion Week as one of several international guests invited to show this season. His "Fashion Until Death" collection embraced gothic chic (particulalry fitting in our vampire obsessed world).

Black lipstck with severe up dos accompanied figure hugging evening wear in deep purple, black and white, an ode to 50s style showing throughout.

As with previous collections, the corset was a keystone in Francois' creations. Broken up into four sections, Francois used lace, velvet and fetish leather to create conversation-starting numbers.

Love them or hate them you can't deny Francois' craftsmenship, fashioning an entire dress out of white zippers, another out of belts.

Interesting, evocative and destined for the pages of fashion editorials around the world, Francois delivers fantasy meets extravagance.

Text: Angela Gilltrap

Fashion Week Poland: Joanna Paradecka

Day one. Show one. Joanna Paradecka sent a Dr. Suess inspired collection of kooky yet wearable ready-to-wear women's down the catwalk in front of a small, yet enthusiastic, home crowd from Lotdz, Poland. Burnt orange shift dresses with geometric cuts kept the designs fresh and flighty with heavier Fall fabrics in taupe and tans mixing with lighter chiffons to provide a practical yet feminine asethetic.

Exaggerated shoulder lines, mid-thigh hems and a myriad of stripes in stockings, clothing and accessories were signature looks in this Warsaw-made collection. Perfect for the fashionista with attitude, each piece is made from 95% recycled fabrics creating an authentic retro-vibe. A particular stand out, was Paradecka's take on men's dress shirts. Manipulating a gray mid-thigh length shirt to produce a comfortable understated chic with an alluring and unexpected plunging back.

The last women's wear collection for this seasoned designer this endearing offering marks the end of an era as Paradecka embarks on yet another project, creating an entirely new brand out of her workshop in Zabkowska Street, Warsaw. Keep an eye on this designer.

Text: Angela Gilltrap

Zoe Twitt: International flavors, Urban style

Fiona McCoss talks all things exotic with women's wear designer Zoe Twitt.

Originally from Australia, this 26 year old designer has cracked the international fashion scene, finally settling in New York to make her assault. Having grown up around the world, she has been exposed to different, exotic cultures which unavoidably have inspired her creativity, setting her up for life to produce and market some of the most seamlessly, exclusively hand-made garments available in the industry.

Her Winter2010 collection features a quirky and inventive use of cut out shapes and zips, revealing subtle peaks of the female form beneath. Knits, sheers, and the ever New York friendly "black," embellished shoulders with natural gems and stones to offset the moody tone with a sparkly, natural feel–not too false or flashy, but in keeping with Twitt’s sophisticated, urban style densely incorporated into next season’s line. Velvet tunics, slashed leather leggings and Italian wool-silk jersey– this designer has combined every material into an amalgamation of perfection.
She took the time out of her busy schedule to answer some questions, revealing her dreams, inspirations and how her life and unquestionable talent has set her up for unending success.



You've had the privilege to travel around the world as a child, which country would you say was your favourite, or most inspirational?

I was very lucky to have been able to travel so extensively while I was young and still developing in so many facets. To be able to absorb the colors of the cultures and the textures of the exotic fabrics and the history of each culture's fashion is the best gift ever. There is such a wealth of art out in the world and so many worldly explorations both modern and historical that artists can draw from. I feel like that was the best gift my parents could have given me and I still feel like there is such an abundance of knowledge and inspiration I don’t use and haven't yet touched on.

I suppose I was mainly inspired by Asian culture and history, particularly the sense of ritual and tradition in wedding dress. I was also inspired by the colors in Jaipur. The silks are fantastic. When I was 15 I spent two weeks in Thailand and designed a few pieces to be made by a tailor there using their colorful Thai silks and some fashion magazines for inspiration. The textures were magnificent! When I was 14 I lived in southern India and became enamored with the jewelry of the region. I love anything ceremonial. I love Chinese antique pieces too. This is all a glimpse into what I'm working on for spring 2011...

I also notice the differing street clothing around the world and how the culture affects the trends. I think different things inspired me at different times and my style was ever-changing. I was constantly finding a different rhythm and sometimes I was trying to make a statement to people. Style doesn't need to be consistent. You can express almost anything just by what you wear. I studied the semiotics of theatre when I was at university and I think this is an overarching important inspiration, too.

At the tender age of 26, you are very young to have cracked the fashion industry. Would you say your age has played to your advantage or disadvantage?

I think the age thing is a double-edged sword. I look extremely young and there have definitely been times that people in the industry have looked at me and at first glance they have assumed I am fresh and know very little. I like surprising them.

The other edge of that blade is that if you do not start when you are young you are not considered fresh. It is like acting in that way, people want you when you're young and if you do not succeed young, like Alexander Wang or Zac Posen, then you really feel like you've failed. I hear this from designers all the time.

Having progressed from one side of the arts to another, what made you make the switch from acting to designing ultimately? Would you ever go back to acting?

I literally woke up one day and decided I wanted to design. It had always been in my mind but it never seemed like the right time. I think at some point you have to just dive in without looking down. If you look down you will get spooked; especially right now when things are a lot more of a gamble. A lot of labels are just in survival mode right now, so it definitely has been an interesting and challenging time to begin.

I would still work in acting again. I love it so much! To date, I have no time for that but if I have a free moment in the future, then I hope something presents itself.

Would you say you have a muse?

I love designing for the woman's body. I am a woman and I want to feel confident! When I design I think about what flatters the woman and how she wants to feel in the clothing. I think she wants to own her sexuality while not being constricted by anything physically. This is why I favour stretch. I use an Italian wool/silk blend jersey for the basic pieces and adorn them with zippers or other details.

So my muse would be the woman’s body. There are some people whose style I love but from them I take more of an inspiration of "mood." While creating "Dark Heart" I was listening to a lot of Bat For Lashes and Goldfrapp (her second album) so there are definitely nuances of the occult. That inspired the crystals which are sort of spiritual but have a sense of rock and roll to them.

Who would you say is your most influential designer?

That's hard! Today I want to go with Martin Margiela. I have been staring at his work above my desk all morning. His work is sculptural and sometimes he has a sense of humour but also a sense of darkness and of theatre. That is what fashion should be-it should really belong to the artist. Margiela is not afraid to create truthfully. I think his work is very wearable, though I know a lot of people don't agree

Where do you see yourself and your ever expanding brand in 5 years time?

We are launching a more complete line of accessories next season. Then I hope to create more outerwear. I think diffusion is the way of the future. You have the ability to reach more people in a diffusion label. Next season there is more of a disparity between what we are creating. One line is diffusion with a high fashion concept for less, while the other collection is smaller and definitely has a sense of a couture collection. That is where my fun comes from! I also anticipate having a full collection of knitwear and gowns and perhaps some lingerie. That would complete my vision.

Catherine Angiel: The Edge

Sean Kiely talks shop with jewelry designer Catherine Angiel

When thinking about high-end jewelry, what comes to mind? Tiffany, Cartier, Choppard and Bvglari are just a few names that many consider to be the classicists of fine jewelry. For decades, New Yorkers have strolled the windows of Fifth Avenue, dreaming of the day they can own a piece of this luxury. What is strange, however, is that most of the recognizable names in this luxurious jewelry industry belong to men. Then along came Catherine Angiel, who did not just take down the walls of fine jewelry design, she busted through them with a sledgehammer.

Angiel isn’t you typical jewelry designer. While she was at the forefront of female jewelry designers, she didn’t attend design school, her pieces don’t retail for outrageous prices and her work experience includes drum solos, as her previous career was a drummer in a Rock 'n' Roll band. As one thing led to another in inspiration began to take control and before she knew it her love of music turned into a profitable design business.

“I’m really inspired by what evokes emotions in me, which is love, romance, music – and that’s how I get my ideas. I can be listening to a song and all of the sudden it will inspire me to create something, hence the "Dangerous" Collection, which is really Rock 'n' Roll inspired.” While music has had the most obvious impact on her opulent creations, the people in Catherine’s life have inspired her as well. “Love is also a fantastic Muse. I’m really inspired by my partner Martha – just her style and the way she puts herself together will give me some ideas.”

Angiel has created five unique collections - Dangerous, Androgyny, Renegade, Delicate and Glam – each evoking Catherine’s fun yet sophisticated spirit. Using distinctive elements and unconventional materials, Angiel creates jewelry bursting with personality, yet remains subtle enough for the red carpet and the mom pushing the baby carriage down the street. “I love working with unusual stones. Whether its black diamonds, or gray diamonds, I’m really inspired by things that are unusual yet can be brought into a classic type of design.” While her pieces might be considered to be dark, they are the perfect combination of a hard attitude and a soft soul.

Angiel’s designs are made for a wide array for clientele, and many times she works with her clients to make sure what they wear is exactly what they want, customizing pieces to any specific need. “I design for a cross between Audrey Hepburn and Angelina Jolie. To me, those are powerful women in their own right, one being more demure, the other being out there and more edgy, but I still get that feminine, delicate, yet sexy twist.”

Angiel, like her clients, is a strong woman with visions of success. Celebrities like Megan Fox, Lindsay Lohan, Ashley Olsen, Sandra Bullock, Rhianna, Parker Posie, Mary Louise Parker, Rosario Dawson, The Pussycat Dolls and Sarah Jessica Parker have all been seen rocking pieces from Angiel’s collections.

One of the most important lessons Angiel has learned over the years however, is that often times the vision of success means remaining true to one’s self. “I know I have to do what’s in my heart, and I have to design what I’m feeling. It has to be less about ‘What does the client want?’ because when I design what I think the client is going to want and I don’t feel it, it’s the ring that doesn’t sell.” It is with this attitude that Angiel is seeing plenty of sales and noticeable press.

Of the highlights of her career, Angiel mentions the independent film The Guitar, in which her jewelry was exclusively used as a definitive element in the story telling of the movie. “(The producer) felt that our pieces really matched what the actress was going though in the movie. It worked in unison... and was a great match for the movie. It was truly an honor.”

While it seems that Angiel is well on her way to conquering women’s jewelry, her next move is taking on the men’s side. “There was a void for jewelry for men. It was either something plain or something vile. Men would love jewelry, if it were cool. Jewelry is supposed to be fun. It’s supposed to be expressive.” And expressive it is–her lighting bolt cuff links and cross necklaces will add a touch of edge to any outfit, with no motorcycle required. With the men’s collection already in motion, Angiel hopes to one day push the envelopes even further. “I love designing homes and gardens. I’m an artist and my pallet choices are precious stones and unusual metals, but to me art is everywhere. Anything that follows creation I would love to push my brand into.” If her boutique on Greenwich Avenue is any indication of her interior design capabilities, she will create some awesome places to call home.

In every ring, necklace and bracelet Angiel produces, her femininity with a punk edge shines through, providing clients with an individual sense of “something different and fresh... without any constraints.” While she might not have the brand name status of other designers in her genre, her pieces hold a name for them selves, and could help you build a name too. Angiel’s something shiny might not come in a little blue box, but it will get you some big attention.

READ: Contemporary Indian Fashion

Angela Gilltrap takes a closer look at Contemporary Indian Fashion

International fashion can get a bad wrap. Stereotypes mixed with fashion snobbery can hinder some of the world's most fashion forward making it to the big stage. But there are innovators in every country and this book, Contemporary Indian Fashion, pays homage to those Indian designers pushing the envelope. Some of those featured you will have heard of, others are soon to become your new favorites.

Edited by Federico Rocca, colorful and informative, Contemporary Indian Fashion takes you into the vivid world of Indian haute couture. Catwalk still lifes mixed with fabric close ups highlight the intricate details, experiment textile techniques and innovative drapery used by these designers. A simple question and answer accompanies each profile with up to eight pages of photographs per designer. Manish Arora, Fightercock and Anamika Khanna are among some of those featured and it won't be long until you find a new favorite.

Contemporary Indian Fashion is guaranteed to inspire. Don't be the last to discover India's fashion forward.

Stylist Barret Wertz: Movin' on up

A freelance stylist at Antenna Magazine and stylist associate for the gorgeous Alicia Keys, Barret Wertz is based in New York and took the time out of his busy schedule, which includes styling upcoming Atlantic Records artist Ryan Star, to give us the lowdown on all things chic.

How did you become a stylist?

I dreamed of working on both the celebrity and editorial sides of the fashion industry. I moved to NYC five years ago and have worked hard and been blessed by getting to work with amazing people at many levels that share a similar brain wave. Now I'm happy to say I love working on both sides of the industry.

What do you love the most about being a stylist?

There is always something new, fresh and creative to be imbued with. Inspiration can be found absolutely anywhere. People in fashion are so lucky to be able and encouraged to express that so vividly and with such candor. I think that is a true gift and I feel honored.

What are your greatest challenges?

Keeping up! There is always something around the corner that's more creative and outrageous or more hidden and just-below-the-radar cool. So many amazing and awesome things going on in fashion all the time... To not be able to do it all is a major challenge all by itself. And also I'm freelance, so not sleeping in on a rainy Monday is pretty hard too.

What brands do you love to work with?

Well who wouldn't love working with the FW10 Men's Gucci and Prada collections... Those both certainly hit the nail on the head. Obsessed. I'm already looking forward to that shopping trip. But on the regular, I would say I love to work with brands that are smart and creative yet have a strong classic element to them. Everything from Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel to Levi's and John Varvatos. And they should have great PR people too of course.

What’s your fashion mantra to the masses?

Do whatever you want... As long as it gives you confidence and makes you feel good.

SANDRA CORREIA: Consciously Corked

Fiona McCoss catches up with Portuguese designer Sandra Correia on the eve of her MoMa debut

Portuguese designer of Pelcor, Sandra Correia, will be showcasing her innovative creations in the MoMa this May as one of the lucky few whose brand will now be associated with one of the biggest and most impressive modern art galleries in the world.

Her range of accessories are not your everyday run of the mill. On the one hand, yes they are practical, fashionable and when necessary, impermeable – on the other, more interesting level, it is the use of medium that she has chosen which plays a pivotal role in her creativity and inovation.

Correia specialises in a rarely used material for the industry she is part of, uncommon to the regular art enthusiast, nonchalant passerby or fashionista: cork. Yes, like the cork used to stop wine.

The idea to incorporate cork into her designs is a family tradition. “My Grandfather worked on cork fields, my father is a cork based businessman and I am following the family path...but innovating with irreverence," she explains. "Expanding our family business to other areas like fashion accessories was a true challenge to designers, partners and other stake holders. But Cork is such a strong, flexible and surprisingly sophisticated material, that what was once an experience, became a successful business, and thus Pelcor was born.”

Its exclusivity is what makes the material so valuable in terms of the endless possibilities for creative license. “Cork is a very unique material – no piece is similar to the other. This makes cork a fascinating and very luxurious material. We also use other materials to mix with cork, all of them of the highest quality – leather, organic cotton, etc.”

Pelcor is also proud for its sustainability, being an eco-friendly brand.

With pieces already available to buy now in the MoMa store, Correia explains that there is more in the pipeline for her designs. “We might have other surprises coming up... but if I were to reveal them, they wouldn’t be surprises. To feature Pelcor Accessories in the MoMA is a very big deal. None of us at Pelcor, especially myself, would have imagined that we would be chosen to be part of their exhibition. But dreaming is one of my favorite qualities. So dreams I have plenty, and all of them worth fighting for.”

Consciously corked, Pelcor and their range of accessories are not to be missed.