Poland Fashion Week: Agata Wojtkiewicz

Considered one of the 40 biggest designers in Poland, Agata Wojtkiewicz put on a colorful showing at this season's Polish "Fashion Philosophy" Fashion Week. Classic colors with the occasional standout splash, outfits were tailored to fit, destined to be worn.

For the confident woman with a taste for form fitting fashion, Wojtkiewicz's specialty is cocktail, evening and bridal wear, creating a collaborative feel with each and every client that walks through the door. From accessories to styling Wojtkiewicz aims to create pieces that reflect a woman's personality with an individual sense of style.

Text: Angela Gilltrap

Fashion Week Poland: Joanna Paradecka

Day one. Show one. Joanna Paradecka sent a Dr. Suess inspired collection of kooky yet wearable ready-to-wear women's down the catwalk in front of a small, yet enthusiastic, home crowd from Lotdz, Poland. Burnt orange shift dresses with geometric cuts kept the designs fresh and flighty with heavier Fall fabrics in taupe and tans mixing with lighter chiffons to provide a practical yet feminine asethetic.

Exaggerated shoulder lines, mid-thigh hems and a myriad of stripes in stockings, clothing and accessories were signature looks in this Warsaw-made collection. Perfect for the fashionista with attitude, each piece is made from 95% recycled fabrics creating an authentic retro-vibe. A particular stand out, was Paradecka's take on men's dress shirts. Manipulating a gray mid-thigh length shirt to produce a comfortable understated chic with an alluring and unexpected plunging back.

The last women's wear collection for this seasoned designer this endearing offering marks the end of an era as Paradecka embarks on yet another project, creating an entirely new brand out of her workshop in Zabkowska Street, Warsaw. Keep an eye on this designer.

Text: Angela Gilltrap

READ: Contemporary Indian Fashion

Angela Gilltrap takes a closer look at Contemporary Indian Fashion

International fashion can get a bad wrap. Stereotypes mixed with fashion snobbery can hinder some of the world's most fashion forward making it to the big stage. But there are innovators in every country and this book, Contemporary Indian Fashion, pays homage to those Indian designers pushing the envelope. Some of those featured you will have heard of, others are soon to become your new favorites.

Edited by Federico Rocca, colorful and informative, Contemporary Indian Fashion takes you into the vivid world of Indian haute couture. Catwalk still lifes mixed with fabric close ups highlight the intricate details, experiment textile techniques and innovative drapery used by these designers. A simple question and answer accompanies each profile with up to eight pages of photographs per designer. Manish Arora, Fightercock and Anamika Khanna are among some of those featured and it won't be long until you find a new favorite.

Contemporary Indian Fashion is guaranteed to inspire. Don't be the last to discover India's fashion forward.

POLAND FASHION WEEK: FashionPhilosophy

UnitedEditorsatLarge will be crossing the pond and heading to Poland Fashion Week for the unmissable, annual spring event that will span, across the second weekend of May, 7th-11th. The country is still in mourning for the recent loss of their President and First Lady, Mr. Lech Kaczynski and Mrs. Maria Kaczynski, who lost their lives earlier on this month, however, the event will go on as planned with commemoration.

Poland Fashion Week is held in Lodz, the countries fashion capital – Poland’s version of Milan or London as it were – famous for its eccentricity, vibrance and unique architecture. Among other events the city hosts the International Film Festival of the Art of Cinematography and numerous ballet exhibitions.
FWP FashionPhilosophy seizes hold of the city of Lodz for 5 whole days, and guests are invited to witness the new unfolding of fashion. Blossoming buds of brilliance emerge from Eastern Europe onto the catwalk and creative inspiration floods every pore and sense.

This year Kenzo Takada, renowned Japanese designer and perfumer, has been named guest of honor, and to name drop some more, Patricia Gucci, granddaughter of Aldo Gucci, will also be attending the foreign fashion festivities in conjunction with the promotion of her new book. Homegrown designers Bies Katarzyna and Natalia Jaroszewska, for example, as well as other European designers will be showcasing their collections on the catwalk in front of an ever eager audience. Front row seats will be a must, don't miss out on our coverage from co-founder and fashion editor, Angela Gilltrap.

From the bookshelf: ...Isms: Understanding Fashion

Angela Gilltrap brings us the best in fashion reads

A pocket-sized guide for fashion aficionados, ..Isms: Understanding Fashion, is a must have for those who like to go beyond the trends, to the heart of fashion.

In order to predict the future one must look to the past — the history, personalities and craftsmenship that have paved the way to where we are now. And this little gem is the perfect starting point for understanding fashion in all its glorious forms.
Fashion historian, Mairi Mackenzie, author of this slim and information packed volume, escorts you through the many periods of fashion — from the Empire-style Neoclassicism of the 18th century to Japanese Avant-Gardeism.

Discover what has influenced the styles we love (and those we love to hate).

With five centuries of fashion in one book — including a glossary of designers, useful terms and a charted chronology of “Isms” — this is a must for any lover of fashion.

Armani Dolci: Fashion Eats

I'm not the only one who believes in the three fashion food groups — caffeine, champagne and chocolate. This year Armani Dolci has released it's own little Easter delight. Featuring a large letter "A" and packaged to impress, this exclusive range of chocolate Easter eggs are available from the Giorgio Armani flagship store on 5th Avenue.

Forget the Easter bonnet, take these to your long weekend soiree and you'll be the belle of the ball.

Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2011: Salsa

Portugal's Denim dominator, Salsa, showed for the first time at ModaLisboa's Check Point. Their Fall Winter 2010/2011 collection producing edgy, denim wear reminiscent of some of the world's most well-loved kings of casual.

Multi-colored denim dresses were interesting additions to the women's wear with samplings from several of their much-loved lines from Premium Denim to more street-inspired offerings. Men's wear in cropped puffer jackets of midnight blue with an abundance of metal detail are sure to fly off the rack.

The line Urban Emotion was launched among the company's many offerings, inspired by the tales of Oliver Twist. Ochre, black, khaki and peacock blue emanated an orphan-esque style that the cool-kids-club love to flaunt.A family-owned company, established in 1994, Salsa continues to expand at a rapid rate.

From Spain to Asia it won't be long until they have you moving. Most recently, Salsa has become a best seller in Kuwait, Qatar, Oman and the United Arab Emirates.

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2011: Miguel Vieira

If you picked up a copy of Zink recently (February 2010) you will already be familiar with Portuguese designer Miguel Vieira. A consummate professional, his collections for both men and women have been a staple here at ModaLisboa. Recently he added furniture design to his enormous catalogue of stylish offerings from bags and shoes, to men's and women's ready-to-wear. Always with a distinctive flair for tailoring and intricate detail, this season was no different.

Creating a distinctive Jackie O flavor, women hit the catwalk in stylish classics, guaranteed to be wardrobe staples. An edge of the modern woman mixed with classic chic produced a cohesive collection that was both commercially viable and creatively intriguing. Ever evolving as a designer, the color palette remained within the classic theme, using black, midnight blue and white. Brocades, muslins, organza, pure wool and cashmere made for some elaborate silhouettes - some form fitting others voluminous, inspired by Couture.

Each selection of women's wear was closely followed by dapper gents in tailored, structured pieces, the Portuguese wonder of masculine chic pervading. Over sized bags and classic shoes accompanied each look, one of the many multi-functional elements of Vieira's designs. As he moves into furniture design, one can only imagine what next season will bring.







Photos: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2011: Ana Salazar

Ana Salazar, known as the Matriarch of Portuguese fashion, closed Day Two of ModaLisboa's Check Point. Baroque inspired, with a rock'n'roll edge, her "Depurar o Excesso" collection showcased a variety of textured fabrics in a gothic inspired color palette. Religious prints coupled with printed velvet shouted "Salazar style" while other pieces remained more contemporary, ready-to-wear.

Utilizing black, old gold, earth, forest green, purple, bloody red and white, hemlines were short, fabrics textured to create a chunky, punk silouette.

Perhaps the most intriguing, jewelry by Valentim Quaresma, which really made the collection come to life. Brass Baroque crosses adorned the cheeks of passing models, necklaces with a myriad of textures and details hung seductively over the front and back of svelte figures. One particular show stopper included a necklace including an oversized British Coat of Arms, hanging from the back, highlighting the cut of dress as well as the theme of the collection, a great fit for both designer and jeweler.

Photos: Ruis Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2011: Katty Xiomara

By far, one of my favorite Portuguese designers, Katty Xiomara's 2011 Winter Collection was a little disappointing. Perhaps it had more to do with the number of pieces shown rather than the creations themselves however, the styles did not seem to evolve in an engaging manner in regards to form, concept or silouette. Saying that, this particularly runway observation, does not detract from the commercial appeal of this collection which remains a highly-wearable, fun, flirty offering that would compliment any figure.

The theme was "To think, to imagine, to day dream, to construct," this was undertaken in a myriad of simplistic style dresses with embellishments that included oversized shoulder lines, ruffled detailing and various neckwear. The lengths remained uniformly mid-thigh, an occasional pair of shorts thrown into the mix. The color palette included celestial blue and grays with highlights of mauve, yellow and toasted almond tones. More definitive styling and a good edit would have helped this collection really sing.

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2011: Alves Goncalves

A sophisticated selection of women's wear, Alves Goncalves' Winter 2011 collection rounded off day one of ModaLisboa's Checkpoint. To the soundtrack of Young American, models sporting '60s bobs, sauntered down the catwalk.

Textured fabrics with swirling felts, the silouettes were feminine and flattering. Utilizing an earthy color palette at times, classic black others, there was plenty to adore.From metalic to see-through fabrics with swirling felt detail, Alves Goncalves lived up to their reputation as a fine manipulators of fabric and design.

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2011: Ricardo Preto

Ricardo Preto opened to an upbeat disco soundtrack, the perfect accompaniment to his "Galaxian Souk Bazar" collection. With the aim of creating a "decided, fearless and strong feminine figure," Preto utilized sparkling fabrics in silver and gold with burnt orange, green and red overtones.

Ornate accessories in the form of bejewled sunglasses and height-enhancing feathers topped off a decidely chic, souk style. Creating flowing garments from a myriad of fabrics, jersey to silk marroquin, cashmere to fur, the collection traversed a varitey of styles not always in line with the overall asethetic. A collection that would have done well with a comprehensive edit, it showed moments of delight in a creatively styled show.

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2010: Alexandra Moura

Neutrals were the name of the game as opener Alexandra Moura kicked off Moda Lisboa's Checkpoint, WINTER 2011. One of the country´s up-and-coming designers, Moura sent out a cohesive collection of see-through fabrics and loose fitting winter favorites for both men and women. However, it was perhaps the accessories that garnered the most attention with gold-capped gumboots and to-die-for wedges, oversized leather bags with intricate details and various clutches guaranteed to keep any fashionista happy.

Figure-hugging jumpsuits hit the catwalk first, soon to be followed by loose fitting dresses playing with the concept of multi-textured, fabric layering. High finish cotton, jersey and wool made an appearance alongside cotton/elastin with a resin finish. Opaque at times with feminine silouettes, it was an easy-to-wear women's wear collection. Conservative knee length skirts with contrasting color, underlayed with ruffled petticoats where a highlight.

Leopard fur trim made a recurring appearance as the show continued, culminating in some less-than-memorable slip dresses. Menswear made a fleeting showing, rolled neck sweaters in complimentary color schemes, various black jackets, featuring interesting cuts and zipper features with accessories rounding out Moura's offerings.Recently selected as one of the most talented future designers for Taschen´s Fashion Now series, it was a great way to start Checkpoint 2011.

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa

Text: Angela Gilltrap

5 Minutes with Accessories Photographer...William Brinson

How did you get started in Fashion Accessories photography?
After coming to NY from Savannah College of Art and Design, I assisted a few great photographers that helped me find my way into the fashion world. With my obsessive attention to detail and a love of graphics, fashion accessories were a clear choice of subject for me. The art of arranging these objects and detailing their natural luxury is what I seek to achieve.

Models or a pair of shoes? Which is easier to shoot?
It really depends. There are just as many settings and situations that they can both be put in. I really don't want to limit myself or my clients about what it takes to have the perfect image.

Favorite clients?
My favorite client is Rocawear. This group of creative people really strive to go beyond, and our collaborations are always amazing.

What are the biggest obstacles in fashion accessory photography?
Fashion is always changing and you need to adapt. As a photographer, or creative person, you need to evolve with the trends, but also remain consistent in your style and vision. This is what sets you apart and keeps people coming back for more.

Trade Secrets?
Be polite and collaborate.

What's next for William Brinson?
I have a new brand identity rolling out soon, I have a new studio that opened, and I have a few personal projects starting up that will be out later this year.

NY FALL 2010: Mackage

Riding Fashion

By Angela Gilltrap for RunwayResource.net

Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan, the duo behind Mackage opened Mercedes Benz fashion week with a small but enthusiastic crowd rugged up to brave Manhattan’s bitter cold. Following the trend of equestrian chic — that we are destined to see more of this season — Mackage produced a cohesive collection of wearable, winter must-haves. From figure hugging, high-necked winter coats in muted tones, to black leather shorts with sequined detail, this Canadian design team served up riding wear for the city savvy. The three-tiered cap sleeve made a recurring appearance throughout the collection giving standard outerwear a stylish touch. Patched elbows and Prince of Wales check providing a classic feel. For the men, asymmetrical leather jackets came up trumps with the bow tie making a stylish statement. Mackage’s signature shaped leather was ever prominent. Interesting tailored lines and sleek silhouettes all part of this collection’s charm.