MANIC TROUT: Swimming upstream

Fiona McCoss cuts to the chase with jewelry designer Sierra Bailey

Vintage has never been more modern. Twenty-first century fashion has been revamping the old and the dusty, bringing back the early, classic decades and the more vibrant retro era into the next season. This a temporal amalgamation of mixing the past in with the present has seen Sierra Bailey step up her game, from collecting memorabilia on childhood trips to staking her name in the jewelery world with her dramatic and inventive pieces.

Based in New York, Manic Trout, as her brand is named, took off after Bailey’s entrepreneurial skills in college set her up for marketing her own handmade creations. From selling to dorm mates to customising for clients, Manic Trout embodies what it is to be vintage and one-of-a-kind. Bailey works with unique finds, buttons, crystals, beads and chains – anything with quirkiness and individuality; she loves creating pieces with bold colours, which make her designs not for the standard, plain Jane.

Sierra Bailey’s passion does not end at jewerly design, however. She also is a dab hand with a paintbrush. Having gone through art school and having computer graphics as a platform upon which to launch her creativity, the founder of Manic Trout also sells her large abstract paintings on wood and canvas. For lovers of fashion and unique one-of-a-kind jewelry Manic Trout is making sure everything old is new again.

Zoe Twitt: International flavors, Urban style

Fiona McCoss talks all things exotic with women's wear designer Zoe Twitt.

Originally from Australia, this 26 year old designer has cracked the international fashion scene, finally settling in New York to make her assault. Having grown up around the world, she has been exposed to different, exotic cultures which unavoidably have inspired her creativity, setting her up for life to produce and market some of the most seamlessly, exclusively hand-made garments available in the industry.

Her Winter2010 collection features a quirky and inventive use of cut out shapes and zips, revealing subtle peaks of the female form beneath. Knits, sheers, and the ever New York friendly "black," embellished shoulders with natural gems and stones to offset the moody tone with a sparkly, natural feel–not too false or flashy, but in keeping with Twitt’s sophisticated, urban style densely incorporated into next season’s line. Velvet tunics, slashed leather leggings and Italian wool-silk jersey– this designer has combined every material into an amalgamation of perfection.
She took the time out of her busy schedule to answer some questions, revealing her dreams, inspirations and how her life and unquestionable talent has set her up for unending success.



You've had the privilege to travel around the world as a child, which country would you say was your favourite, or most inspirational?

I was very lucky to have been able to travel so extensively while I was young and still developing in so many facets. To be able to absorb the colors of the cultures and the textures of the exotic fabrics and the history of each culture's fashion is the best gift ever. There is such a wealth of art out in the world and so many worldly explorations both modern and historical that artists can draw from. I feel like that was the best gift my parents could have given me and I still feel like there is such an abundance of knowledge and inspiration I don’t use and haven't yet touched on.

I suppose I was mainly inspired by Asian culture and history, particularly the sense of ritual and tradition in wedding dress. I was also inspired by the colors in Jaipur. The silks are fantastic. When I was 15 I spent two weeks in Thailand and designed a few pieces to be made by a tailor there using their colorful Thai silks and some fashion magazines for inspiration. The textures were magnificent! When I was 14 I lived in southern India and became enamored with the jewelry of the region. I love anything ceremonial. I love Chinese antique pieces too. This is all a glimpse into what I'm working on for spring 2011...

I also notice the differing street clothing around the world and how the culture affects the trends. I think different things inspired me at different times and my style was ever-changing. I was constantly finding a different rhythm and sometimes I was trying to make a statement to people. Style doesn't need to be consistent. You can express almost anything just by what you wear. I studied the semiotics of theatre when I was at university and I think this is an overarching important inspiration, too.

At the tender age of 26, you are very young to have cracked the fashion industry. Would you say your age has played to your advantage or disadvantage?

I think the age thing is a double-edged sword. I look extremely young and there have definitely been times that people in the industry have looked at me and at first glance they have assumed I am fresh and know very little. I like surprising them.

The other edge of that blade is that if you do not start when you are young you are not considered fresh. It is like acting in that way, people want you when you're young and if you do not succeed young, like Alexander Wang or Zac Posen, then you really feel like you've failed. I hear this from designers all the time.

Having progressed from one side of the arts to another, what made you make the switch from acting to designing ultimately? Would you ever go back to acting?

I literally woke up one day and decided I wanted to design. It had always been in my mind but it never seemed like the right time. I think at some point you have to just dive in without looking down. If you look down you will get spooked; especially right now when things are a lot more of a gamble. A lot of labels are just in survival mode right now, so it definitely has been an interesting and challenging time to begin.

I would still work in acting again. I love it so much! To date, I have no time for that but if I have a free moment in the future, then I hope something presents itself.

Would you say you have a muse?

I love designing for the woman's body. I am a woman and I want to feel confident! When I design I think about what flatters the woman and how she wants to feel in the clothing. I think she wants to own her sexuality while not being constricted by anything physically. This is why I favour stretch. I use an Italian wool/silk blend jersey for the basic pieces and adorn them with zippers or other details.

So my muse would be the woman’s body. There are some people whose style I love but from them I take more of an inspiration of "mood." While creating "Dark Heart" I was listening to a lot of Bat For Lashes and Goldfrapp (her second album) so there are definitely nuances of the occult. That inspired the crystals which are sort of spiritual but have a sense of rock and roll to them.

Who would you say is your most influential designer?

That's hard! Today I want to go with Martin Margiela. I have been staring at his work above my desk all morning. His work is sculptural and sometimes he has a sense of humour but also a sense of darkness and of theatre. That is what fashion should be-it should really belong to the artist. Margiela is not afraid to create truthfully. I think his work is very wearable, though I know a lot of people don't agree

Where do you see yourself and your ever expanding brand in 5 years time?

We are launching a more complete line of accessories next season. Then I hope to create more outerwear. I think diffusion is the way of the future. You have the ability to reach more people in a diffusion label. Next season there is more of a disparity between what we are creating. One line is diffusion with a high fashion concept for less, while the other collection is smaller and definitely has a sense of a couture collection. That is where my fun comes from! I also anticipate having a full collection of knitwear and gowns and perhaps some lingerie. That would complete my vision.

Seventy-Two Changes

Fiona McCoss uncovers the next big thing

Gracing the cover of Vogue Taiwan this month, is Mondopop star-turned-designer Jolin Tsai. Leaping onto the scene in 2009, Tsai’s range, Seventy Two Changes, showed for the first time at last season's NY Fashion Week and has since, been snowballing in popularity and demand.

After receiving such deserved attention, the 29 year-old designer and her debut range have been steadily growing by way of collections, lines, fans and followers; supplying pieces internationally to the style savy.

Having just opened a flagship store in Shanghai’s Times Square this past February, Seventy Two Changes – who teams up with chief executive officer and co-founder of L.A.M.B., Ken Erman – is planning to conquer more of the Eastern Orient with stores in Beijing and Guangzhou planned to open by the end of next year.

The ever changing lines are inspired by Jolin’s eccentric nature. Her quirky, urban take on fashion pushes the limits of seasonal styles and at the same time avoids the ever-too-radical-statements that fashion can sometimes menace. Rather, she offers a happy medium of stylish chic, accessible and affordable – a breath of fresh air as most pop stars go.

Her singing career is also continuing steadily; her musical creativity sits, as always, alongside her practical creativity, after all the inspiration for the brand’s name came from one of her most popular hit songs "See My Seventy Two Changes."

Following last year’s album Butterfly, the pint-sized pop star has been working to release a greatly anticipated follow up this summer to go alongside her expanding image as one of the new faces in the fashion industry.

Seventy Two Changes is available in the U.S. through Nordstom.com and other select outlets.

Stylist Jamee Gidwitz: Brains & Beauty

Fiona McCoss catches up with NY's stylin' stylist Jamee Gidwitz

New York based, stylist and fashion editor, Jamee Gidwitz knows a thing or two about style. As other kids were skipping rope, her talent and passion grew from arranging perfume bottles into composed, still-life shots in the bathroom; sticking magazine cut-outs of sparkly jewellery onto her wrists and ears. Today, she remains one of the country's most sought after stylists and editors, working with rock stars, celebrities and countless fashion mags.

Having never studied fashion at school, her talent remains pure, raw and effortless. Far from lacking in education however, she graduated from Brown with a major in Semiotics and French, and in fact, Gidwitz has not thrown her Ivy League days behind her but instead capitalises on all the priceless life skills which she gained.

“My formal education definitely taught me a lot of discipline, which is what you need as a freelancer," says Gidwitz. "But I think my talent as a stylist comes from being curious, open minded and growing up around inspiring people and places."

She's a smart cookie this one; not just a pretty face. Gidwitz’s styling and marketing work has been published in Interview, Cosmopolitan International, German Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue and Elle Accessories, to name but a few, styling celebrities for red carpet events and gaining the title as Market/Style Editor for Harpers BAZAAR.

"I remember telling my mother that when I grew up I wanted to do windows of stores,” she reminisces. “Then I wanted to be the editor-in-chief of my own magazine that dealt with things I loved and felt were important: art, architecture and fashion.”

“With definitive dreams from the start, it seems this freelance fashion editor-come-stylist has worked herself up to become a respected and renowned name in the international fashion industry. “I didn't go to fashion school, but I knew about fashion. I always felt very strongly about fashion.”

With high-end editorial and celebrity styling ticked off her list — as well as marketing experience for one of the biggest fashion magazines in the world — Gidwitz will not be slowing down anytime soon. Always thinking about the next project with a head full of goals, her career is limitless.

Iodice: Bold designs for the everyday

Fiona McCoss dicovers Brazil's best kept secret

Founded initially as a knitwear company, Iodice has gone from strength to strength. The Brazilian design house, created in the 1980s by Valdemar Iodice, is one of the most prestigious in South America, internationally recognised for its “design and quality." Gradually developing from knitwear to denim, Iodice then combined his appreciation for the female form with his signature style, the silhouette.

In 2001, Iodice opened its flagship store on the renowned fashion street of Brazil’s capital. Covering hundreds of square metres the store offers three floors of pure luxury: ready to wear, women’s jeanswear, menswear and an exclusive line. Having conquered both Americas with showrooms in LA and NY, the brand is now to be found in 240 stores worldwide.

Iodice’s most recent collection, his FW10, is another example of the brilliance of the creative director. Incorporating the sophisticated simplicity of tans, whites, blacks and sheers, asymmetric lines, draped fabric and plunging necklines; the dresses encompass the essential idea behind the brand: chic perfection.

Beaded necklaces accompany the garments, sitting heavy and proud on the waif-like models’ necks, which adds boldness to the designs. This season we witness, once again, Iodice’s bias towards the sensuality of the female form as his collection features figure hugging body cons, accentuating the silhouette he so appreciates.

However, it is not only the above-the-knee for which he cares; elegant floor length gowns in tie-dyes, emerald greens, blues and blacks are classically reinvented and restored into staples of FallWinter2010. Ultimately Valdemar’s vibrant addition of the bright greens, pinks and purples gives his FW10 line a fun, carefree vibe; perfect for the carnivalesque atmosphere of Sao Paolo, Brazil and indeed for all of us looking for a touch of spice.

POLAND FASHION WEEK: FashionPhilosophy

UnitedEditorsatLarge will be crossing the pond and heading to Poland Fashion Week for the unmissable, annual spring event that will span, across the second weekend of May, 7th-11th. The country is still in mourning for the recent loss of their President and First Lady, Mr. Lech Kaczynski and Mrs. Maria Kaczynski, who lost their lives earlier on this month, however, the event will go on as planned with commemoration.

Poland Fashion Week is held in Lodz, the countries fashion capital – Poland’s version of Milan or London as it were – famous for its eccentricity, vibrance and unique architecture. Among other events the city hosts the International Film Festival of the Art of Cinematography and numerous ballet exhibitions.
FWP FashionPhilosophy seizes hold of the city of Lodz for 5 whole days, and guests are invited to witness the new unfolding of fashion. Blossoming buds of brilliance emerge from Eastern Europe onto the catwalk and creative inspiration floods every pore and sense.

This year Kenzo Takada, renowned Japanese designer and perfumer, has been named guest of honor, and to name drop some more, Patricia Gucci, granddaughter of Aldo Gucci, will also be attending the foreign fashion festivities in conjunction with the promotion of her new book. Homegrown designers Bies Katarzyna and Natalia Jaroszewska, for example, as well as other European designers will be showcasing their collections on the catwalk in front of an ever eager audience. Front row seats will be a must, don't miss out on our coverage from co-founder and fashion editor, Angela Gilltrap.

"Tanner Hall" Premier: Fashion & Film

Last night’s premiere of Tanner Hall brought out the big guns in support of writer/directors Francesca Gregorini and Tatiana Von Furstenberg. A vivid peek into the private world of an all-girls boarding school, Tanner Hall is a coming-of-age story based around four central characters, teenage girls navigating life, love and friendship.

Premiering at the 15th Anniversary of the Gen Art Film Festival presented by Acura, it stars Rooney Mara, Georgia King, Brie Larson, Amy Ferguson, Tom Everett Scott, Amy Sedaris, and Chris Kattanooney. Stars such as Diane von Furstenberg, Caitlin Moe, Evan Ferrante, Miss USA, and many others walked the red carpet in support.

Tickets and information on the films can be found at www.genart.org/filmfestival/newyork/2010.

Diane von Furstenberg

Rooney Mara & Tom Everett Scott

Tatiana Von Furstenberg

Photo Credit: Rob Loud

CLEOBELLA: From Bali and Beyond

Fiona McCoss gets a handle on Cleobella

Take a beautiful couple from Southern California and send them around the world and you end up with un-parallel creations such as those of Cleobella. A headstrong duo of business-brains and raw artistic inspiration, Angela and Jim O’Brien are the co-founders of their new, “travel inspired,” quirky accessory label.

Having left their jobs to travel to the exotic corners of the world from Europe to the Far East, they have created a highly sought after, individual range of ladies handbags and accessories, most inspired by their stay in India. “It's a magical place,” says Angela. “The use of colors and jewels the women wear to adorn their body are so intriguing and inspiring. India is one of the few countries I've traveled to that is not influenced by American culture; their culture is so rich in tradition and history. With an open mind and open heart, you can't help but fall in love with India.”

With a profound belief in sustainability, the couple source their handcrafted products from Indonesia. “All of our handbags are 100% handmade in Bali. Cleobella works with small, family owned factories supporting the livelihood of foreign artisans.” As well as this, a percentage of Cleobella’s profit goes towards the international women’s charity, Care.

“I see Cleobella branching into other categories including home and ready to wear,” Angela admits — as well as expanding their gorgeous outlet of travel clutches, perfect for the fashionable jet setter, which can fit everything from a passport to coins and lipstick. “I also see Cleobella as a recognizable brand in the fashion industry.” We have to agree.

TM COLLECTION: Inspired fashion

Fiona McCoss gives us the low down on high fashion

TM is a Portuguese founded fashion label, born in 2003. Their culturally inspired collections are famous for being ethnically breathtaking; featuring the signature underlying theme of naturalness, individuality and the beauty of creativity. Produced (under strict supervision), TM ensures garments are of a quirky uniqueness and stunning simplicity.

“Folding Emotions,” one collection, brings to mind far eastern, oriental-style dress with its billowing silks and floral patterned, loose jackets. Obi kimono sashes are widely encompassed, too, jazzing up the outfits with a modern take, uniting East with West seamlessly. Deep reds, silvers and sky blues give an appearance of elaborate exquisiteness, complimenting the delicate and soft tones and shapes.

“Spirits Speak,” their other collection, is inspired by a more tribal, African theme. The collection, of reds, yellows, bronze and browns – typically earthy tones – is amalgamated into a series of wonderful, patchwork dresses, woven bags and chunky beaded necklaces. With the same light, and airy feel that “Folded Emotions” evokes, this raw and natural collection comes with little details like snakeskin effect and dried-earth patterns to continue the fashionably wild look.

With shops all over the world, it’s a line you’ll want to see, naturally.

From the bookshelf: ...Isms: Understanding Fashion

Angela Gilltrap brings us the best in fashion reads

A pocket-sized guide for fashion aficionados, ..Isms: Understanding Fashion, is a must have for those who like to go beyond the trends, to the heart of fashion.

In order to predict the future one must look to the past — the history, personalities and craftsmenship that have paved the way to where we are now. And this little gem is the perfect starting point for understanding fashion in all its glorious forms.
Fashion historian, Mairi Mackenzie, author of this slim and information packed volume, escorts you through the many periods of fashion — from the Empire-style Neoclassicism of the 18th century to Japanese Avant-Gardeism.

Discover what has influenced the styles we love (and those we love to hate).

With five centuries of fashion in one book — including a glossary of designers, useful terms and a charted chronology of “Isms” — this is a must for any lover of fashion.

Armani Dolci: Fashion Eats

I'm not the only one who believes in the three fashion food groups — caffeine, champagne and chocolate. This year Armani Dolci has released it's own little Easter delight. Featuring a large letter "A" and packaged to impress, this exclusive range of chocolate Easter eggs are available from the Giorgio Armani flagship store on 5th Avenue.

Forget the Easter bonnet, take these to your long weekend soiree and you'll be the belle of the ball.

Text: Angela Gilltrap

ModaLisboa 2011: Salsa

Portugal's Denim dominator, Salsa, showed for the first time at ModaLisboa's Check Point. Their Fall Winter 2010/2011 collection producing edgy, denim wear reminiscent of some of the world's most well-loved kings of casual.

Multi-colored denim dresses were interesting additions to the women's wear with samplings from several of their much-loved lines from Premium Denim to more street-inspired offerings. Men's wear in cropped puffer jackets of midnight blue with an abundance of metal detail are sure to fly off the rack.

The line Urban Emotion was launched among the company's many offerings, inspired by the tales of Oliver Twist. Ochre, black, khaki and peacock blue emanated an orphan-esque style that the cool-kids-club love to flaunt.A family-owned company, established in 1994, Salsa continues to expand at a rapid rate.

From Spain to Asia it won't be long until they have you moving. Most recently, Salsa has become a best seller in Kuwait, Qatar, Oman and the United Arab Emirates.

Photo credit: Rui Vasco/ModaLisboa
Text: Angela Gilltrap