NY FALL 2010 Day 1: Toni Maticevski

TONI MATICEVSKI: A new take on beauty
By Joseph Ungoco for RunwayResource.net

Toni Maticevski amped up the fashion drama with a deconstructed, photo shoot set and elegant orchestral soundtrack for his runway show at the Altman Building. With the fashion press still reeling from the news of Alexander McQueen’s death, the assembled crowd was reminded that as in life, the show goes on.

The show opened with gossamer sunray pleated silk tulle gowns that seemed to float, suspended in a one-of-a-kind fashion moment. To the soaring strains of the theme from Gattaca, we were treated to visual proof of new life in the world of fashion. Just as that movie celebrated the shrugging off of society's limitations, so Toni M. throws convention to the proverbial wind and presents a unique aesthetic. From the softly draped blouses to the deconstructed full skirts in tulle, the entire collection was overflowing with exuberance for a new sensibility regarding beauty.

NY FALL 2010: Lacoste

Lacoste: Laser precision
By Joseph Ungoco for RunwayResource.net

Lacoste, the French lifestyle brand long known for its triple wide runways and armies of models, narrowed the visual focus and opted for a raised single runway in lemon yellow. The LCD crocodile at the head of the runway cycled through the rainbow of colors presented in the collection.

Creative director, Christophe Lemaire, started with a '30s moment in shades of light heather grey. Oversized car coats with loose boxy shoulders brought us back to the start of the car age. What followed were multicolored confetti knits and chic sophisticated color blocking in green red yellow and black. The asymmetrical cloche worn opposite a low side ponytail gave us flapper, with just a hint Amelia Earhart.

NY FALL 2010: Ports 1961

PORTS: Flying high
By Joseph Ungoco for RunwayResource.net

As we filed into the Ports 1961 show, we were met with massive graphics of pistons and machinery arching over the U-shaped runway. The show began with a moment of silence for fashion's lost son then fog began to pour out of the doors to backstage. Some of us were feeling the Machine Age vibe and wondering if this staple of the “Ladies who Lunch” set might have gone Rosie the Riveter Workwear on us.

What ensued however, was sheer delight. Designer Tia Ciabani gave us an Amelia Earhardt moment. From the supple gloves to her modern take on the aviator hat, she took us through what a modern woman wears to conquer the air in an open biplane — as well as the city streets!

The muted color palette was rich in deep hues and sprinkled through with prints in luxurious fabrics. The heavy guage slubbed knits were paired with leathers in an utterly fresh take on the Ports aesthetic.

NY FALL 2010: Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown: Delightfully Yours
By Joseph Ungoco for RunwayResource.net

Right when the fashion elite were starting to get into the groove of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the regulars were literally stunned into silence over the news of Alexander McQueen's death. But before sadness could really settle in, the duo behind Duckie Brown sent out a stream of delightfully “mad-for-plaid” outfits that brought back happy memories of McQueen's own Royal Stewart tartan confections.

The maxi-cuffed, knicker-length trousers were just cheeky enough to bring us all back to the business at hand. Solid pops of color like fire engine red and acid yellow were the perfect compliment to the somber tones of black watch plaid. The "bruised" tweed had the textile obsessed drooling. The exotic texture and ultra-masculine color palette of this unique fabric appeared in several, very wearable combinations. Hats, gloves and shoes aren’t just for ladies who lunch anymore. Duckie Brown boys wouldn't be caught dead without them!